Molding is a strip of material, traditionally wood, used to cover transitions and add definition to walls, ceilings, doors, and windows. You’ve probably seen crown molding at the top of a wall or baseboard at the bottom. It’s not just decorative. In the old days, people used molding to keep the wind and rain from coming in the cracks in their home. These days, molding helps hide gaps, smooth out uneven edges, and give a room a finished look.

There are different types for different spots. Crown goes where the wall meets the ceiling. Baseboard runs along the floor. Casing frames doors and windows. Chair rail protects walls from scuffs and helps break up taller walls. Panel moulding adds detail to otherwise flat surfaces. It’s all about giving structure and shape to a space.

Molding’s been around for thousands of years. It started as a practical solution and evolved into a design feature. Whether you’re going for clean and simple or something more detailed, molding can tie a room together. It’s a small detail that makes a big difference when it’s done right.

Either/Or. It's the difference between the American or British spelling. We usually use the American spelling here, but both work fine.

Why Material Matters
Picking the right material sets you up for an installation that lasts and looks great. Consider your room’s conditions, your finish preference, budget, and ease of work before you buy.

Key Factors to Consider

Moisture exposure: Bathrooms and basements need water-resistant options.

Durability: High-traffic areas or exteriors call for tougher materials.

Ease of installation: Some materials are lighter and more forgiving for DIY.

Finish: Paint adhesion versus stain-ready surface.

Cost: Materials range widely in price.

Profile size: Larger profiles may only come in specific materials.

Material Options

Urethane

• Pros: Very lightweight, pre-primed, paint-ready, resists warping and moisture. Includes detailed designs not feasible/practical in other materials

• Cons: Pricier per foot than some alternatives.

• Best for: Taller rooms where you need deep profiles without adding weight, bathrooms, and exteriors.

PVC

• Pros: Waterproof, rot-proof, insect-proof, easy to clean.

• Cons: Can flex on long runs; requires paint.

• Best for: High-moisture areas (showers, laundry rooms), exterior trim, and budget-friendly builds.

Wood

• Pros: Natural beauty, stainable, traditional look, easy to shape.

• Cons: Prone to warping in humidity, higher skill to install, higher cost for hardwoods.

• Best for: Formal spaces, stain-finish projects, and historic restorations.

MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard)

• Pros: Smooth surface, stable in indoor environments, very budget-friendly, paint-ready.

• Cons: Swells with water, heavier than similar profiles, not suitable outdoors.

• Best for: Interior painting projects in dry rooms, economical broad profiles.

Decision Steps

Check Environment

High moisture? Lean to PVC or urethane.
Dry, climate-controlled? Wood or MDF works well.

Determine Finish

Want to stain? Choose wood.
Painting only? MDF, urethane, or PVC are fine.

Assess Profile Size

Large, ornate profiles: urethane often offers the deepest, lightest options.
Moderate sizes: all materials available; balance cost and durability.

Set Your Budget

Tight budget: MDF or PVC.
Mid-range: Simpler urethane, wood pine or poplar.
Premium: high-end urethane or exotic hardwoods.

Plan Installation Skill

Beginner DIY: urethane and PVC are forgiving and light.
Experienced installer: wood for traditional joinery; MDF for smooth paint jobs.

You’re Ready to Choose
Match these factors to your project priorities, and you’ll select the material that balances look, performance, and budget. Enjoy building trim that fits your space and style perfectly.

If you've never cut molding before, it can definitely be intimidating. Follow our step by step guide, however, and soon you'll be cutting like a pro

1. What You’ll Need

• Miter saw (electric saw that makes angled cuts) or a miter box + hand saw (manual version).

• Coping saw (small saw with a thin blade for cutting curves, used on inside corners).

• Measuring tape (at least 25 ft long).

• Pencil for marking cut lines.

• Speed square or protractor (tools for measuring angles).

• Clamps (optional, to hold trim steady).

• Safety gear: eye protection, dust mask, ear protection.

• Masking tape (to mark your lines and reduce splintering).

• Wood filler and sandpaper (to fill nail holes and smooth edges).

2. Get Ready
Let the trim sit in the room for at least two days so it adjusts to the room’s temperature and humidity. This reduces warping after you install it. For wood, maybe give it 3 days.

Check for defects: lay each piece flat. If it rocks or bends, set it aside.

Know your crown molding “spring angle” (only for crown molding). That’s the angle where the molding meets the wall and ceiling. Common angles are 38°, 45°, or 52°. You’ll find this number on the packaging or you can measure it with a protractor.

3. Measuring and Marking
Measure the wall from corner to corner. Write down the exact number, don’t round off.

Transfer that measurement onto the back side of your molding (the side that will touch the wall).

Mark your cut line with a pencil. For cleaner cuts, place a strip of masking tape over the line before you mark it.

4. Making Straight (Butt) Cuts
When one end of the trim sits flat against a surface (like around a window):

Set your saw to 90°. This means the blade is straight up and down.

Lay the molding flat on the saw bed with its bottom edge against the fence.

Line up the blade with your pencil mark.

Hold or clamp the molding firmly, then make the cut in one smooth motion.

5. Cutting Corners (Miter Cuts)
Outside Corners
(Where two walls meet and the trim wraps around the corner.)

Walls should meet at about 90°.

For the left piece, set your saw to a 45° angle to the left. For the right piece, set it to 45° right.

Tip: keep the same face of the molding against the fence so both pieces match orientation.

Test-fit the pieces. If there’s a small gap, trim a fraction of a degree more.

Inside Corners
You have two options:

A. Miter Joint
Cut both pieces at 45° inward.

Quick, but gaps show if your walls aren’t perfectly square.

B. Coping Joint (recommended)
First piece: cut a 45° inside angle (face side toward blade).

Second piece: make a straight 90° cut.

Coping: hold the mitered piece so you can see its angled cut face. Use the coping saw to follow the molding’s profile, removing the waste behind that 45° face.

Fit the coped edge snugly against the straight-cut piece. Light sanding helps if it’s too tight.

6. Cutting Crown Molding (Compound Cuts)
Crown molding sits between wall and ceiling, so you need two angles at once: the bevel (tilt of the blade) and the miter (rotation).

Find the spring angle on your molding packaging (e.g., 38°).

Position the molding on the saw the way it sits on the wall and ceiling: often upside-down and tilted.

Set the bevel (the tilt) and the miter angle according to manufacturer specs. For a 38° spring on a 90° corner, that’s usually about a 33.9° bevel and 31.6° miter.

Cut both pieces, test-fit, and tweak if your walls aren’t exactly square.

7. Safety Reminders
Check blade alignment often so cuts stay accurate.

Keep fingers away from the blade; use push sticks for small pieces.

Measure twice, cut once. This saves material and time.

You’ve got this. Take it step by step, and soon you’ll have sharp corners and smooth walls that look professionally trimmed.

So here's the good news. Finished cutting? The hard part is over. It's smooth sailing from here on out.

Safety First
Use the proper tools and follow their safety instructions.

Wear eye protection, a dust mask, and hearing protection.

Keep the work area clean and well-lit.

Tool & Material Checklist
Construction adhesive (100% acrylic latex)

• Paintable caulk & caulking gun

• 16 ga finishing nails

• Miter saw or miter box + saw

• Paint or primer

• Chalk line & pencil

• Clean cloth or sponge

Pre-Installation Steps
Prime or paint the moulding with acrylic-latex paint before you install.

Let it acclimate: store the moulding in the room for 2–3 days so it matches temperature and humidity.

Clean surfaces: wipe dust and debris off the wall and the back of each moulding piece.

Confirm dryness: make sure walls and moulding are fully dry before applying adhesive or caulk.

Installation Steps
Fit and Prep

Dry-fit each corner block and straight length so profiles align.

Trim any pieces as needed to achieve a flush fit.

Apply Adhesive

Load your caulking gun with construction adhesive.

Run a continuous ½″ bead along the top (ceiling edge) and back (wall edge) of each piece.

Use adhesive to fill any visible gaps in the profile.

Position and Secure

Press the moulding firmly against the wall and ceiling, following your chalk line.

Nail into studs or blocking every 16–24 inches with finishing nails.

Countersink nail heads just below the surface.

Seal and Smooth

Strike a thin bead of caulk along all seams: corners, seams between pieces, and where moulding meets wall and ceiling.

Smooth caulk with a damp finger or putty knife for a seamless look.

Final Touches

Once adhesive and caulk are dry, sand any rough spots.

Fill nail holes with wood filler; sand smooth when dry.

Apply final paint or stain.

By following these steps, you’ll achieve clean, professional-looking moulding with minimal fuss. Enjoy the transformation.

Why a Build-Up?
We offer urethane profiles that come impressively large: ideal for tall rooms without fuss. If you truly prefer the look and feel of real wood, need a custom depth, or just want to build something truly your own, a build-up lets you glue thinner wood layers into one thicker molding. Think of it as stacking and bonding boards until you hit the exact profile height you want.

Safety & Prep
Wear safety glasses, a dust mask, and hearing protection.

Keep your work area tidy and well-lit.

“Measure twice, cut once” applies here more than ever.

Tools & Materials

• Wood strips or boards (hardwood or softwood)

• PVA wood glue

• Clamps (bar or pipe style)

• Measuring tape & pencil

• Straightedge or square

• Miter saw or circular saw

• Router with matching profile bit—or hand plane for simple shapes

• Sandpaper (120–220 grit)

• Wood filler or paintable caulk (for tiny gaps)

• Primer, paint, or stain

**Step-by-Step Build-Up

1. Plan Your Layers**
   Decide your final profile depth (e.g., 2″).

Divide that into manageable layers (for example, two 1″ boards or three ¾″ boards).

2. Rough-Cut Each Layer
Cut each board to the correct length.

If you have a paper or cardboard template of your profile, trace its edge onto each board face.

**3. Shape the Profile
**Router method: Use the matching bit to rout the profile along each board’s edge.

Hand-tool method: A small plane or rasp can approximate curves or chamfers for simpler profiles.

Lightly sand each edge to remove tool marks.

4. Glue-Up Layers
Lay the first layer flat, glue side up.

Spread a thin, even film of PVA glue.

Place the next layer on top, aligning profiles precisely.

Wipe away squeeze-out with a damp cloth as you go.

5. Clamp and Cure
Position clamps every 12–16″, applying firm but not crushing pressure.

Double-check that edges stay flush; use scrap wood blocks under clamps to distribute pressure evenly.

Let glue set per instructions (usually clamp 1–2 hours, full cure ~24 hours).

6. Final Shaping & Sanding
Remove clamps and inspect joints.

Pass your router over any minor misalignments, or sand flush by hand.

Sand the entire molding progressively: 120 → 180 → 220 grit for a smooth finish.

7. Fill and Seal (Optional)
Fill tiny gaps or nail holes with wood filler or caulk.

Lightly sand once dry.

8. Finish
Prime bare wood if you’ll paint.

Stain or paint the build-up to match your décor.

Seal with clear coat or varnish for durability.